We’ve had chicken thighs on the menu since day one, and this is the preparation we opened with. It is still one of our most popular. We rub the chicken all over with three kinds of mustard, dip them in bread crumbs, then roast them with white wine and good stock until they get super-crisp on top and yield meltingly to the fork. Served with mashed potatoes and sauteed vegetables of the day.